The course will be an 80 hour Permaculture Design Certificate Course spread out over 14 days. This allows for ample time for students to digest the material, get hands-on experience and work on the final design project and presentation. The course will be a certified through TreeYo Permaculture as we adhere to Bill Mollison’s curriculum that comprises the 14 chapters of his book “Permaculture: A Designer’s Manual” and the course reflects this commitment and has a strong emphasis on how the design principles and process influence site development and systems management. Full details available here! For more information on other courses that will be held at The Kebun, please see here!
Archive for the 'Kuching Farm Stay' Category
TripAdvisor™ TripWow ★ Kuching Holiday 2010 Slideshow ★ to Kuching by Noel Rodriguese. Stunning free travel slideshows on TripAdvisor
Beginners Bee Keeping Course – This course which will be held onsite is a step by step approach of how to start the first hive. In this course candidates learn about bees, honey, flora and pollination through this practical hands on course. The tutor has 30 years experience in bee-keeping. Scheduled for June 2011.
We are looking to see if this crop of Tomato’s will turn out to be as pretty as we hope them to be instead of the usual attacks of bugs! It would be nice to once in a while get some pretty ‘clean’ looking ones. The Marigold seem to be helping out but still too soon to tell. Now I wonder if we shall have extra and use some and make some tomato sauce this time around?
We started on the converting of the largest goat house into the first of planned longhouse style accommodation some weeks back after building a new goat area for the goats evicted. So far we have had made good progress in putting up the walls with some help from wwoof’er Ian. The room interior’s is still hardly completed and still a long way to go. As of now only 3 room interior have been partially completed but these will need to be reworked as we are not happy with the ‘look’ and the ‘feel’ we are aiming for.
The hardest work we thought was the scraping of the goat droppings of which we have a mountain of to use for the organic garden and the reinforcement of the structure and floor. Then the harder bit was the carrying of the timber to the longhouse which is about a 300 meter walk which also was completed thanks in a small part also to wwoof’er power.
It looks like we will be making slower progress with us going back to work on the gardens which have been neglected in part but life is getting to be a bit easier with the arrival of a groundsman Raul and livestock man Jhong. Now we prepare for the coming monsoon season but try and spend whatever spare time there may be working on the longhouse.
Take a last look at what the longhouse looked like almost 8 weeks ago. It looks way different now and with every nail we are slowly reaching the finish line. It is going to look awesome.
We have been rather busy these past weeks in getting on with the general maintainance and repairs after the previous monsoon rains which was not as heavy as the past years but more spread out. Last weekend there was the pruning chores and it looks like we will have a good crop of Soursop’s. If you ever have the opportunity to either eat it of have it as a juice fresh then you will discover one of the most unusual and delicious taste ever. Simply yummy.
It is always very satisfying when your effort finally bears some fruit, more so when it came from a couple of seeds you snuck in saved when eating it in another country. I just love Pulasan and have begun noticing it being sold in very small numbers in the city. Very few people have even heard of it let alone enjoyed eaten it. The seeds are edible and taste a bit like almonds. And NO. Thou shall not ask for some till i have stuffed myself had my fill.
Ever so often we get a glimpse of this very shy forest animal either darting across the farm either in the very early mornings or at dusk. Coming across them feasting on fallen fruits is quite common at night only if you are very quiet and are patient enough to wait for them to appear.
Royal Palm Turkey
The average life span for a intensive factory farmed domestic turkey is said to be around 2 to 6 years only. I doubt they would even reach 2 years as they should mature into slaughtering aged long before 1 year? Commercial flocks are bred to be abnormally large due to market demand genetic alteration, and are on purpose fed a diet laced with drugs and chemicals. These factors, along with the raising of turkeys in intensive system always results in health problems. Commercial turkeys can supposedly reach 8 to 12 kilos by the age of only 15 weeks, and hens can weigh over 13 kilos and toms over 18 kilos when they are fully grown.
Turkeys require clean, fresh water which must be available at all times. The use of a poultry fountain or automatic watering unit is recommended to avoid spillage and to keep water as clean and dry as possible. In our tropical warmer weather you must check water all through the day. Turkey feed can be purchased at farm supply stores in most western countries and unfortunately it is unavailable here in Sarawak and I dare say most of Malaysia. Premixed turkey feed generally contains antibiotics and animal by-products, and commercial turkey feed is designed to promote fast growth, which is very harmful to an animal that has already been bred to be abnormally large. Our recommendation is to purchase mixed grains available locally which is crushed corn and padi. You should also try and source for sunflower seeds which are an important source of calcium necessary for proper formation of eggshells. For hens during laying season, a calcium supplement should be added to the feed which is again not available locally here so we have been useing chicken feed which is formulated for egg layers. Turkeys generally self-regulate their food intake however, if you notice that your turkey is exceeding its normal weight, restrict the amount of feed per day. When your turkey is fully grown we recommend their food intake be restricted and more greens and roughage added, such as fresh vegetables or grass. Greens should supply up to 25% of the nutritional needs of your turkey. Turkeys also love fruit treats, but these should be given in very limited quantities, since they can add too much sugar to the diet.
Bourbon Red Turkey
Turkeys, particularly ones that have been debeaked, do not like to eat their food off the ground. Choose a container that is heavy enough to avoid tipping and small enough to prevent birds from walking or standing in their feed, as this can lead to contamination by feces.
Due to the excessive weight of turkeys, their legs can be easily damaged, and turkeys should never be picked up by their legs. To pick up a turkey, stand behind the turkey, fold your arms and upper body over the wings and back of the turkey, hug firmly, and lift. Handle firmly, but gently, to avoid injuring the turkey or yourself. If your turkey is struggling or seems very stressed, set it down for a moment and start again. It may help to cover the turkey’s head and eyes with your free hand, as this may quieten it down. Stay low to the ground when handling turkeys, as the legs are very vulnerable to ligament tearing or breaking from even a short fall.
Black Spanish Turkey
A shed makes a fine turkey home. A good size is 10′ x 20′ as this is high enough for you to be able to walk comfortably inside. The shelter must be waterproof, predator-proof and well ventilated. A wooden floor is best for cleaning purposes. Plenty of clean, dry grass or wood shavings should always be provided for bedding, and wet and soiled bedding should be removed on a daily basis. For protection from predators, don’t forget the 2 foot type too, turkeys must be kept safely in their shelter at night. The shelter should be equipped with a roost. A sturdy pole across makes a good roost for a turkey. Hens will also need a nesting box, which can be easily constructed of wood. Adult commercial turkeys cannot fly and are heavy and easily thrown off balance. It is vital that anything a turkey is using as a roost be low enough and sturdy enough to avoid leg injury when jumping up to roost or when coming down off the roost.
Fencing is necessary to keep predators out and turkeys in. Since most domestic turkeys are too heavy to fly, a four-foot fence will be adequate. If you are planning on constructing a fence, shop around for the best buy as prices and styles of fencing vary greatly. Do not use chicken wire alone as fencing as it is too flimsy and predators can easily break through it.
Every three to five weeks, turkeys should get a routine, individual health check and have some basic health care procedures done. These include checking the vent for any injury and parasites, cleaning the vent, if necessary, feeling the breast area for scabs or sores, checking the hocks for scabs or swelling; checking the bottom of the feet and toes for scabs and/or bumblefoot, looking at the head and watch for swelling and discharge around the eyes and nostrils, and clipping the toenails. As with all animals, sanitary housing, clean pasture, nutritious food, and plenty of sunshine will reduce health problems. During your daily contact with your feathered friends, always be on the lookout for any physical or behavioral changes. In particular, watch for diarrhea, listlessness, pale coloring, fluffed feathers, loss of appetite, and coughing. If you notice any of these symptoms, consult with your veterinarian. In large flocks, turkeys tend to have a low disease tolerance, and health problems are greatly reduced in smaller flocks. It can be difficult to find a veterinarian who is willing to treat turkeys, but they do exist.
Turkey bumblefoot is different than bumblefoot in chickens. Turkeys suffer from abscesses on the footpads that resemble corns. The infection usually follows an injury to the footpad and there may or may not be pus present. If there is pus, it should be cultured to determine the bacteria involved and the antibiotic treatment required. Some cases of bumblefoot are mild and can be treated with wraps alone. There are many methods to treat bumblefoot, depending on the severity.
Coccidiosis is a protozoan parasite. Symptoms include bloody diarrhea and listlessness. Keeping the bedding clean and dry will help control this disease, as wet bedding is one of the predisposing factors. Many treatments are available and can be added to water to treat a whole flock, or given to individual birds. If you suspect your turkey has coccidia, have a fecal test done for this, and consult your veterinarian for the best treatment according to the size of your flock.
A fecal test should be done every three months to check for internal parasites in your flock. Worming medication can be purchased at farm supply stores in easy-to-use formulas that are added to water, or in an injectable form, depending on the type of parasite involved. Your vet can prescribe the proper medication necessary. If you are bringing new birds into your flock, it is important to isolate them from your birds until you have established that they do not carry parasites, since they are easily spread through the fecal matter.
Lice can generally be controlled by providing your turkeys with an area of dirt for “dust baths” (throwing dirt on themselves). Mites are usually small black or red dots. Older birds, birds who have a compromised immune system due to illness, and birds from unclean environments are more susceptible to both lice and mites, and all should be checked regularly. Mites and lice tend to congregate near the vent of the turkey, and if properly treated, can be eliminated. The best method, of course, is prevention; keep bedding dry and clean, and remove straw from nesting areas daily. Sprays and dusts are available at most veterinarians, and the use of injectable Ivomec also controls these parasites.
Turkeys will molt on an annual basis, generally during the spring or fall season. During their molting period, the birds may lose a large portion of their feathers. This is a natural process, which lasts between four to ten weeks. If your turkey is losing feathers during a non-molting period, consult your veterinarian.
Heat exhaustion is common in turkeys; watch them closely in hot weather. Signs of heat exhaustion include excessive panting, open mouth breathing, drooping, dark colored head, and collapse. At first sign of heat exhaustion, get the turkey inside immediately and put a fan on low, as birds can go into shock and die quickly. Mist the turkey lightly with cool water . Keep your bird quiet and calm and do not handle any more than necessary.
Upper respiratory infections are usually indicated by the presence of nasal discharge, audible respiration (gurgling), lethargic behavior, and loss of appetite. Also, the sinus area directly under the eyes can become swollen. If you notice any of these symptoms, consult with your veterinarian. Antibiotics are usually required, and many are designed to go into the drinking water, if whole flock treatments are necessary.
Hens that are egg bound have difficulty laying their eggs. Symptoms include constant squatting, straining, panting, and other signs of distress and discomfort. This condition should be deemed an emergency, and turkeys with these symptoms should be treated immediately by a veterinarian. Calcium gluconate injections may be needed. Always be sure to remove eggs daily, and make sure your turkeys continue to eat and drink when they are nesting.
Histomoniasis, or more well known as blackhead is an organism lives in the digestive tract of a small roundworm, and infected birds pass it in their droppings. Other birds can contract the disease from the droppings or from earthworms that feed on the droppings. It is best to keep a close eye out for this, as well as keep your turkeys (and all animals) on a regular worming schedule. Turkeys affected with Blackhead will be droopy and their droppings will be yellow. If any symptoms arise, contact your veterinarian immediately. This is a lethal disease, but if caught in time, it can be treated.
Crop impaction occurs when large amounts of fibrous material such as grass or straw are ingested. The material forms a ball in the crop and will not allow food to pass through the remainder of the digestive tract. The crop often looks pendulous, but many times it is not obvious by sight alone. Turkeys who are impacted may survive for days, but gradually they will become emaciated and can die of malnutrition. Early detection is possible by feeling the crop of any bird who seems sick or stops eating. Often, if caught in time, it can be corrected surgically.
Signs of splaying are decreased activity or reluctance to move, slipping while walking, and/or flapping wings while struggling to walk. Splaying can be caused by obesity and can lead to many secondary problems, such as feet and hock sores, wing bruises, prolapsing caused by the strain of trying to move, damaged tendons, and even cardiac arrest. The best treatment is prevention. However, if splaying is already occurring, it is not too late. Isolate your turkeys and restrict their diet, and increase activity levels if possible. If any wear appears on the feet or hocks, wrap them for protection with soft gauze and vet wrap.
By the way an adult turkey’s normal body temperature is 107.5° F, with young turkeys ranging between 102° F to 106° F.
And a Merry Christmas & Happy New Year to ALL Living Beings!